|Bei EDELRID seit:||2018|
I have a purple lucky drawer. More seriously, I derive my strength and motivation from a serious skiing accident in which I could have died and taught me a lot about myself and about life.
I have been climbing for about ten years. I started in a club near Paris. I immediately loved this sport and it quickly became a passion, so much that I built myself a pan in my room. I was fascinated by the sensations and having to think of nothing else while climbing, just do the job
My hero was Indiana Jones, I was dreaming of adventure. I do not consider myself as a model but I would like to be one and I want to share my values to inspire and dream. The fact that someone watch me does not influence me. On the contrary, I want to be myself and remain so.
The highlight of my life is my skiing accident while I was preparing my race list to pass the mountain guide certificate. I stopped all sports for 6 months, and spend two months in Nepal to relax. I knew it was a turning point in my life. I stopped to devote myself to the mountains and I devoted myself eclusively to climbing.
My biggest failure is the fact of having stopped preparing the mountain guide after my accident. That's where I get my strength. This moment is engraved in a corner of my head and I became stronger thanks to that.
My best climbing experience is probably my traverse of the Chartreuse with Christophe Dumarest. We pend 10 days in autonomy, doing 1 or 2 major routes a day with walking junctions. It was a moment out of the world and very intense. We shared a lot and discovered so mutch during this trip. When you come back from this kind of adventure, you feel more alive than ever.
I have a training plan for physical preparation for 6 years. I am followed by Thomas Ferry. From September I will begin the mental preparation.
I climb several times a week in addition to these specific exercises
I think climbing is above all a sport of sensation. In my opinion, the best way to progress is to climb on all possible supports (indoor, outdoor, bouldering, cliff...). You have to to bring a lot of variety to your practice in order to develop a large gestural repertoire.
It the beginning we had climbing wall only to be able to train. Today indoor climbing is a discipline in its own right with particular gestures (run and jump, skate...).
Nevertheless, being able to climb in indoor climing gyms is a real asset for the rock. We can train in a fun way, rebuilt problems that we meet outside. When you can't go outside, being able to climb inside is essential to keep fit and progress.
I'm able to do several pulls to one arm but not yet on a finger.
First, we should define success for a climber. Is it achieving its goals ? Or is it to have a maximum of views on instagram? Today they are not necessarily the best climbers that are the most popular...
I think that some people are born with a talent but with work anyone can make it.
It is important to have goals in order to know where you are. By setting goals, we are finding a way and it is important if we want to progress and move forward in the discipline. They also allow you to question yourself.
Short term: 2018 Season
Longer term :
In climbing, it is what I prefer: pushing my limits and getting out of my comfort zone. I find that there is nothing more satisfying than to leave a project with perseverance and having given everything. So it's true that sometimes it's not easy, the ego is heckled and we think that it would be easier to make tracks or blocks of our level.
Today climbing is in big development. With the development of the gyms, the sport becomes less elitist and more affordable, but we can't forget that it is a risky sport.
Today what I would like to change is to promote the cliff and adventures. Climbing is not just about competitions, 1-armed pulls or extended throws. I would like us not to forget the wealth of outdoor practice.
This sport will continue to develop, especially with the arrival of the Olympics. The discipline will become more democratic and indoor climbing will become more than ever a discipline in its own right. My role would be to not forget the other side of the sport and these multiple faces.
What I'm looking for in climbing is pushing my limits. I love getting out of my comfort zone - the ego is always jostled. What may seem painful is actually for me a real source of motivation.
When I climb in my max level, I'm in ultimate concentration and I think movement by movement, nothing else exist anymore. It's this sensation that gives me the most.
I also enjoy sharing and spending time with my « Compagnons de cordée ». Rock climbing is more than just an individual sport. We learn in contact with other climbers whatever their level. To progress and to move forward, we need these exchanges, these moments of sharing. These moments are exciting, at least as much as the success of a project.
Performance is a source of satisfaction, of course, but the walk to it is truly exciting and incredible. It is these values of climbing that I wish to show and that I establish at each of my sessions as a climber as well as a coach.