|Heimat:||Terrassa, Barcelona, Catalonia (Spain)|
|Bei EDELRID seit:||2021|
|Sponsoren:||Blue Ice, Julbo, and Edelrid|
Favourite type of climbing:
Highlights: I climbed Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in the same season. In 2016. 2017 I became a father, and I climbed for the 1rst time the north faces of Droites and Drus in the winter season. In summer, on the other hand, I climbed the "Walker Spoor '' in the north face of Jorasses, and in autumn we climbed the Eiger's north face in very bad conditions. The next year, in 2018, I travelled to Peru, and I climbed in solo Alpamayo. after climbing the Sfinge ''la cruz del sur" and we tried to climb Jirishanka in Huayhuash. We couldn't get to the summit but we almost made it! In autumn I climbed another time in Jorasses north face, we climbed "Japan Couloir".
The next year, 2019, was my best year, I climbed the "Slovak direct", in the south face of Denali, Alaska. We were the first spanish guys to do so. In summer, I came back to Peru and tried to open a new route in the Siula Grande's east face. There aren't any routes in this face and we opened more than half of the face but, suddenly, we were hit by a few rocks and we had to go down. Later, in 2020 "coronavirus" appeared so travelling wasn't a possibility anymore.. In summer I went to work in Chamonix because I am mountain guide and, when I could rest, I had the opportunity to climb two of my dream routes: "Superintegral de Peuterey", and "Manitua" in Jorasses North Face. In September when I arrived home, I strictly started my first planned training which I still do nowadays and gave me the fruits of redpoints 8a + ..!
I'm "casteller", which means that I make human towers..!
I actually don't have a hero in my mind, but I do remember a book and a film that hit me. "Freney 1961" is a book that taught me that the mountain is not always as beautiful as it seems and that the line from a good adventure to a tragedy could be very thin. "Touching the void", on the other hand, is a film with which I learned that if you fight to the end, you can find and do great things such as life on itself.
I don't think so. But I feel that I influence a bit more people every day, and, to be honest, that remains in my mind. But I always try to be as natural as possible so it does not affect neither my daily life nor my climbing life.
My most important climbing I think that is Slovak direct in Denali's south face. In my daily life I've also had great moments, when I became a father was definitely a highlight, too, and my life changed. I hope that another big moment comes in June when I'm doing the final UIAGM Exams..!!
I think I haven't had great failures... Maybe, at some point it's been difficult to find friends to go climbing on the routes I was dreaming at that moment.
While climbing a 500 meters mixed route (free and aid ) I a rope solo , I was in the middle of a pitch 250 meters from the ground and I placed a Blue Black Diamond cam. When I went to grab the rope for clipping a realized that, shit I did not have a rope...
In a moment I passed of a being in an amazing place enjoying tranquility an peace to be in and a very bad situation. I lost my rope because these pitch was very vertical and the rope was pulling down inside my bag by it's own weight. I was climbing with my rope inside my back pack in my back and I was sure that I did a knot at the end of the rope to avoid these situation but, wherever these didn't matter anymore. I was there in the middle of a scary pitch with poor rock and not to many options to do. I keep climbing no ropes for 12 meters and then I clipped my self to a couple of pitons.
Was cold, nobody new that I was there and I did not have a rope...
Lucky me before I start trying to climb down I hear some people near to the base of the wall and I could tell them my funny situation.
That was many years ago and rescue teams where not as professional as they are now I guess. I had to wait for 23 hours hanging on the wall, being very , very cold, without warm cloths, water, food or the most important part ,my rope...
Since September I have started to train seriously and I am very motivated. I do a sport climbing training to improve my technique and my strength to be able to do greater lines in the near future. I also go for a run twice a week, but I don't programme this part of the train that seriously.
I'm not the best person to give training advice because I haven't specifically trained for a long time so far... but my advice might be to listen to your body and stop training before you get injured. I think it is keeping training in a routine that makes you improve rather than being obsessed with the power of that training.
I think that indoor climbing gyms are a great tool to get fit and improve technique and strength. However, the crowd in these places offer you a totally different environment than the natural places. I'm talking about screaming on the walls, music around, dogs, trash or motorized vehicles. We should be conscious about these challenges and try to educate beginners altogether. I also think that climbing as a "get fit" tool has created another way (or at least not mine) to understand the mountains. This other vision is far from the beginning of the climbing philosophy, when the importance was the size of the adventure and not only the difficulty on itself.
I can make 1 arm pull up but not only with 1 finger..!
I honestly think that I don't show a lot of my image and, thus, I succeed due to my climbing skills.
I think that you have to be born with the necessary power of will... but if you want you find the way to any direction.
To have a goal helps you to find a way to do it. Without any clear objective, it's easier to unfocus on what you really want.
As a short term target, I would like to free-climb the "Divine Providence" in Pilar D'Angle in summer. I also want to go back to Perú to finish the line we started in Siula Grande! As a long term target, I would like to open a new line in a 7000m mountain. For example: opening a new route in G-IV..!
My goal in life is clear: enjoy happiness and live intensely every day we get.
With determination. Trusting myself and being sure I can make it!
I sometimes get frustrated. But I try one the feet touch the floor again, forget about the frustration and look at the challenge with optimism and motivation to try it again as soon as possible.
I would like the collective to have more consciousness on the environment and to be more respectful with nature. There are more and more climbers every day and if we don't look after the space we share, we will end up creating unfriendly spaces for nature and for ourselves.
I believe that sport climbing will evolve a lot. There's more information on how to train better everyday, and how to optimize your training. If climbing becomes an olympic sport, states would invest more money in that, helping future climbers to have a wider range of opportunities. In the alpinism world though, I don't think it is going to change much. Surviving cold, not eating enough, barely sleeping or pushing the suffering doesn't like most part of the society, that search for comfort.
My role as a mountaineering professional is trying to help consciousness to preserve the environment that we share. I want to try to take part in this important challenge we have as a whole society. From a sportive view, I want to spend time enjoying as much as I can in the activities I plan, never searching to feed my ego but always trying to get to my targets.