SVANA BJARNASON -FRANCE-

Sports climbing / Bouldering

Birthday:	16.12.1991
Homeland:	Fontenay aux Roses, France
Place of residence:	Lyon, France
Size:	171

Arm length:	170
Ape-Index:	-1
With EDELRID since:	2018
Sponsors:	EDELRID, ABK Climbing, ArtLine Holds, Planetgrimpe

CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

Youth french team in 2010
Many podiums in French cups in youth categories, both in lead climbing and bouldering
European universities vice-champion with my engineering school in 2016

INTERVIEW

Climbing

What most people don't know about me

That i'm an engineer.

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

I started climbing at the age of 10 thanks to my mother and elder brother who started as well. I have to admit my beginnings were tough, i wasn't that gifted but i hung on. I slowly discovered the world of competing and started to win local events. Something clicked and I'm now an addict! More than a simple sport, it's a way of life and a mentality I love.

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

I don't remember having a childhood hero. I admired many climbers though!

I wouldn't consider myself as a role model.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

I remember one specific climbing comp, I was 12 I think. Reaching the finals would mean I would be able to compete at Nationals, but I wasn't that much into competing at that time so I didn't really think about it. But I ended at the 9th place, one place away from the finals. I thought I wouldn't care but I was so disappointed! I realize now that's the day I decided I wanted to train and be stronger.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

I've had many injuries, especially when I was competing. It's been tough for me because I could see everyone making progress whereas I had to rest and then start again from the beginning. But somehow I always found the motivation to come back, even after big injuries and I'm very proud of that. Now I know with the right recovery and a lot of motivation you can always come back, and usually even stronger than you were.

My greatest failure lead to my greatest achievement in competitions. When I was in juniors I injured my ankle pretty badly (big sprain with torn ligaments and some other things I don't remember), only 3 weeks before the most important comp of the year for me. That comp was my last chance of being selected for a European Youth Cup with the youth French team, which I've been dreaming all the season, without any success. The doctor told me I would have to pass on the comp, there was no way I'd be able to climb. I cried a lot obviously but then decided I would climb on one leg for 3 weeks and see how it goes. I went to take part in the comp anyway, without any pressure because I knew I wasn't in a good shape and I hadn't climbed with both feet for weeks. But turns out I was much stronger, climbing with one foot had made me a better climber somehow. And that's how I made it to the youth French team and competed in the European Youth Cup! Never been prouder. Then I had to stop climbing for almost 8 months because my ankle was doing pretty bad but I never regretted my choice!

Training

Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

I used to but now I don't really have a training routine. Depends on the project!

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

I'm not sure I could give advice in training but one thing I know and everybody should do is listening to your body and your mind. If you start feeling a pain somewhere or if you feel tired or if you don't feel like training, then rest. It's ok to miss a training session, it's not to miss 3 months of climbing because you got injured training when you were exhausted! Also, everybody knows that but it's important to warm up properly and stretch after a good session.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

I think climbing indoor has become very different from outdoor climbing. The moves you can find in modern bouldering for example, don't look at all like those you can find on the rock. Many people like it, I don't.

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

I'm clearly not! Need to work on those biceps.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

Depends on the climber!

Psychology of climbing

Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

I think most of the people would be able to eventually. They would have to work very hard for it, but with the proper training and mental skills it would be possible.

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

In my opinion it is very important to set goals in professional sports, to have a direction. But some people don't need to!

I'm still working on those goals in climbing but, in life, to be happy and keep doing what I love would be a good start!

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

I always get frustrated but usually that motivates me!

The future of climbing

Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

The Olympics format for sure. Also I don't really like the style of modern bouldering and I wish some of the bouldering gyms would offer more classic problems!

Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

I think a lot of people will start climbing after seeing the Olympics but all these people will only do indoor climbing which is a shame in my opinion. So I'd like to help promoting outdoor climbing, sharing my vision and my experiences so everybody can see how cool is it to climb on real rock!