PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
Mélissa Le Nevé -GLOBAL TEAM-
Sports climbing / Bouldering
| Birthday: | 08.07.1989 |
| Homeland: | Lyon |
| Place of residence: | Fontainebleau |
| Size: | 168 cm |
| Arm length: | 175 cm |
| Ape-Index: | +7 |
| With EDELRID since: | 2020 |
| Sponsors: | EDELRID, Adidas, Five Ten, Arkose, Deuter |
CAREER HIGHLIGHTS
- Podiums world cup from 2011 to 2016
- 8B+ boulder in fontainebleau « Mécanique élémentaire »
- 8C/+ Sport : « golden ticket » Red river gorges ; « Wall street » frankenjura ; « bah bah black sheep « Céüse »
- 8B+ multi pitch FA « Action direct » Météora
INTERVIEW
When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport
I started when I was 15 after trying all kind of sports. What got me into climbing straight away was the self expression, personal challenges which also makes me grow up as a person. It was also addicting because I had talent and abilities for this sport (lot of explosive power for a tiny girl). I just felt in the right place with this nice community, being a shy teen, not feeling comfortable in society.
Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?
I discovered climbing in Bordeaux and the climbing history wasn't very deep rooted there. So I never had a climbing hero, even if I have now a lot of respect for the actors of the climbing history ! I had just the hunger to get better and play around ! I admit I was totally hyper active. Nowadays, I don't like to consider myself as a role model but I would like to inspire people to work hard for whatever motivates them ! Sure it influences me that people look up to me, but I try to follow my psyche for climbing.
What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?
In everyday life, having the freedom to shape my daily routine around climbing. This is something I'm seeking for now and in the future, building my abilities that last in a way that I'm satisfied with. I didn't recognize it straight away, I learnt it by becoming a professional climber and realizing I want to create my own way.
In climbing, for sure competitions taught me so much ! Handling my hyper sensibility was the first point, reveling myself and being able to share it on stage with thousand of eyes on me ! Then getting addicted to this energy ! Rock climbing taught me the inner calm and the deeper contact with nature, seeking for proud lines :) But also patience for solving complex movements ! The tougher it is, the more I am !
What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?
Ouch, I had so many injuries while competiting... mainly psycho-somatic when I wasn't feeling right with what I was doing or divers relation I had. Competitions pushes you so much and the stress during the events is super high (at least mine), so sometimes you go too far and especially when you like to fight for what you believe in.. My love and addiction for climbing always brought me back ! Patience is the key with injury (sometimes not being able to do any sports) and focusing on the moment present of what you can do for a brighter time ! Then always take recovery slowly and having a good medical team to support you !
What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?
Probably traveling to Africa, in Malawi or Madagascar, discovering different concepts of living free from occidental time convention and where people are generally happy even if their life's conditions are very poor. Also simply being able to challenge myself on incredible lines with different rock, different size, different part of the world.
Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?
I work with Guillaume Levernier who help me to design a training program depending of my goals. After 8 years training with different coaches form the French team, he is actually the most brilliant I have been working with, full of scientific concepts to train climbing differently (he is doctor in sport science). For me, it's very important to be followed by someone to have an outside perspective and don't get lost.
So I build with Guillaume training schedule for around 6 months a year.
What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?
New exercises is the key to answer slow improvement ! If you repeat over and over something, at one point you will reach a roof. But at the same time you need a minimum of repetition to be able to do some new movements (careful wit injuries be aware of the alerts of your body).
What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?
For me, it's the way to be stronger, in less time for my outside projects, so I train a lot inside. It's also a good meeting point for the community. Just one important point for me, is the education of new climbers coming from gyms regarding their behave outside (like brushing, taking their trash, respecting locals, trails...)
Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?
« Ahah strength is the base » I always say ! I can do two... close to three :)
Never tried on single finger, I'm kind of careful with injuries and want to eliminate risks. But I play with 10mm holds :)
How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?
It probably depends who you ask ! And It's really true that charisma influences numbers of opportunities.
To me climbing skills and pushing limits should come first !
Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?
With loads of hard hard work, time, psyche and dedication, I believe it's possible a big part of the population ! Also probably depending on your situation, with the right choices, mind and advices. Tricky !
How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?
I think setting goals is a basic part of professional sports.
My goals are being able to be complete climber from small to big on amazing and inspiring hard lines ! I have a big list to fulfill, I admit ... :)
How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?
I'm an hard worker and I love solving problems, focusing on details. So extremely hard climbing problems motivate me more than staff I can do quick. But for sure then it can be a roller coster of emotions ! Of course, I'm sometimes frustrated but I try to focus on little progress or positivity I can have ! And when I don't see it for a while, I change air to come back stronger ! I'm not the kind of person who gives up.
Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?
I don't think we can change the current developments but I believe we can give a personal touch for a positive impact. Especially questions around environment and behave with the growth of climbing because of the Olympic Games.
Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?
With the massive development of climbing gyms lately, everyone can witness that climbing as a sport is exploding. I see my role as trying to inspire people on questioning themselves for better environmental choices, consider everyone behaves and advices with kindness to integrate new people in this magic community (good sens of the term). I hope this community will be an actor for the change of a lower impact on the environment !
