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Baptiste Dherbilly EDELRID

BAPTISTE DHERBILLY -FRANCE-

Sports climbing / Bouldering

Birthday: 26.05.1993
Homeland: Paris
Place of residence: Argonay
Size: 176
Arm length: 176
Ape-Index: 1
With EDELRID since: 2018
Sponsors: EDELRID, Scarpa
CAREER HIGHLIGHTS
  • Karma 8a+ bloc (FR)
  • Salamandre 9a+ (First repeat)
  • La rose et le vampire: 8b, Buoux (FR)
  • Ordalie: 8c+ (First repeat) (FR)
  • Take it or leave it (Verdon) (FR): Multi picth - Pitches, 8a max/ 7c oblig. Chain of 4 pitches in the day
  • 2 first ascents in Haute-Savoie (FR)
  • Entre rêve et réalité: 8c, Forclaz (FR)
  • XV station: 8c+, Jourdy (FR)
  • Gillox et Roucky, Suet (FR)
  • Lot of pitches in the 8th degre (Until 8b Bourldering & 9a+ Crag) : Terradets (Spain), Verdon (FR), Magicwood (Switzerland), Fontainebleau (FR), Silvretta (Switzerland), Targassonne (FR), Albenga (Italia)
  • Lot of multi pitches â€" Sport & traditionnal climbing: Verdon, Presles, Calanques, Taghia, Archiane, Glandasse, Bavella...
Baptiste Dherbilly EDELRID
INTERVIEW
Climbing
What most people don`t know about me.
 

I have a purple lucky drawer. More seriously, I derive my strength and motivation from a serious skiing accident in which I could have died and taught me a lot about myself and about life.

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?
 

I have been climbing for about ten years. I started in a club near Paris. I immediately loved this sport and it quickly became a passion, so much that I built myself a pan in my room. I was fascinated by the sensations and having to think of nothing else while climbing, just do the job

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?
 

My hero was Indiana Jones, I was dreaming of adventure. I do not consider myself as a model but I would like to be one and I want to share my values to inspire and dream. The fact that someone watch me does not influence me. On the contrary, I want to be myself and remain so.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?
 

The highlight of my life is my skiing accident while I was preparing my race list to pass the mountain guide certificate. I stopped all sports for 6 months, and spend two months in Nepal to relax. I knew it was a turning point in my life. I stopped to devote myself to the mountains and I devoted myself eclusively to climbing.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?
 

My biggest failure is the fact of having stopped preparing the mountain guide after my accident. That's where I get my strength. This moment is engraved in a corner of my head and I became stronger thanks to that.

What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?
 

My best climbing experience is probably my traverse of the Chartreuse with Christophe Dumarest. We pend 10 days in autonomy, doing 1 or 2 major routes a day with walking junctions. It was a moment out of the world and very intense. We shared a lot and discovered so mutch during this trip. When you come back from this kind of adventure, you feel more alive than ever.

Training
Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?
 

I have a training plan for physical preparation for 6 years. I am followed by Thomas Ferry. From September I will begin the mental preparation.

 

I climb several times a week in addition to these specific exercises

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?
 

I think climbing is above all a sport of sensation. In my opinion, the best way to progress is to climb on all possible supports (indoor, outdoor, bouldering, cliff...). You have to to bring a lot of variety to your practice in order to develop a large gestural repertoire.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?
 

It the beginning we had climbing wall only to be able to train. Today indoor climbing is a discipline in its own right with particular gestures (run and jump, skate...).

 

Nevertheless, being able to climb in indoor climing gyms is a real asset for the rock. We can train in a fun way, rebuilt problems that we meet outside. When you can't go outside, being able to climb inside is essential to keep fit and progress.

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?
 

I'm able to do several pulls to one arm but not yet on a finger.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?
 

First, we should define success for a climber. Is it achieving its goals ? Or is it to have a maximum of views on instagram? Today they are not necessarily the best climbers that are the most popular...

Psychology of climbing
Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?
 

I think that some people are born with a talent but with work anyone can make it.

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?
 

It is important to have goals in order to know where you are. By setting goals, we are finding a way and it is important if we want to progress and move forward in the discipline. They also allow you to question yourself.

 

Short term: 2018 Season

  • Babel, Ali Baba
  • New route in the Alps
  • Continue to develop climbing in Haute-Savoie through these achievements

Longer term :

  • Repeat international pitches: Dreamcatcher at Squamish, Tough Enough in Madagascar
  • Repeat the French classics: La Boule at la Saint Victoire, les Spécialistes at le Verdon
  • Big walls: silbergeier, la voie du poisson, delicatessen

 

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?
 

In climbing, it is what I prefer: pushing my limits and getting out of my comfort zone. I find that there is nothing more satisfying than to leave a project with perseverance and having given everything. So it's true that sometimes it's not easy, the ego is heckled and we think that it would be easier to make tracks or blocks of our level.

The future of climbing
Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?
 

Today climbing is in big development. With the development of the gyms, the sport becomes less elitist and more affordable, but we can't forget that it is a risky sport.

 

Today what I would like to change is to promote the cliff and adventures. Climbing is not just about competitions, 1-armed pulls or extended throws. I would like us not to forget the wealth of outdoor practice.

Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?
 

This sport will continue to develop, especially with the arrival of the Olympics. The discipline will become more democratic and indoor climbing will become more than ever a discipline in its own right. My role would be to not forget the other side of the sport and these multiple faces.

 

What I'm looking for in climbing is pushing my limits. I love getting out of my comfort zone - the ego is always jostled. What may seem painful is actually for me a real source of motivation.

 

When I climb in my max level, I'm in ultimate concentration and I think movement by movement, nothing else exist anymore. It's this sensation that gives me the most.

I also enjoy sharing and spending time with my « Compagnons de cordée ». Rock climbing is more than just an individual sport. We learn in contact with other climbers whatever their level. To progress and to move forward, we need these exchanges, these moments of sharing. These moments are exciting, at least as much as the success of a project.

 

Performance is a source of satisfaction, of course, but the walk to it is truly exciting and incredible. It is these values of climbing that I wish to show and that I establish at each of my sessions as a climber as well as a coach.

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