LOIC ZEHANI -GLOBAL TEAM-

Sports climbing

Birthday:	05/12/2001
Homeland:	Salon de Provence (France)
Place of residence:	Salon de Provence (France)
Size:	176

Arm length:	179
Ape-Index:	1.02
With EDELRID since:	2018
Sponsors:	EDELRID , TENAYA

CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

"Le Cadre" 9a (Céuse) , "Ma faute à toi" 9a (Cevennes)
"Sashidananda" 9a+ (Orgon)
"L'enfance prolongée" 9a (Orgon)
"Le poisson pilote" 9a (Orgon)
"Corrida" 9a (Fétid Beach)
"Obsession" 9b (Orgon)

INTERVIEW

Climbing

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

I started climbing when I was 10 years old. My father climb since many years ago. I put a lot of time before start to climb but when I started I no longer stop. I love being outside.

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

I don't actually have a hero but I am very impressed by climbers like Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Dave Graham , Adam Ondra ... They looks so strong and so fun. I am not influenced by the look of others in general but sometimes I have to admit to attach a little importance.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

In first stop the football and begin to climb. My first 8a one year after , my first 9a 3 years after and this summer my redpointed of "Le Cadre" at Céuse. All of these moments was a kind of revelation for me that I found my way ,my passion: Climbing.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

I remember the first time I went in Le Cadre at Céuse, I was able to do all the movements exept one of them. This was the end of the holydays. I dreamed this route all the winter and I was fortunate to redpoint this "King line" one year later.

What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

My story with "Le cadre" for sure because in terms of pure difficulty this may not be the most difficult but it was the first time I doubted especially during two months (August and September) during which I could not go at Céuse. This route is so nice and Céuse is so special for me.

What most people don't know about me

I am able to "sleep" on the ground just for climb the day after in my project, like the last summer in Céuse.

Training

Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

I have not especially a training plan. No planning for the year. From September to March I make bouldering in climbing room twice a week and I make sport climbing outside the two days of the week-end . From April to August I make sport climbing in climbing room twice a week and sport climbing outside the week-end . To resume I climb 4 days in a week.

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

For now we cannot say that I climb too much !!! then no advice... Each person are different and each training should be different.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

For me indoor climbing allowed me to progress ready in my projects on rock . And then I like to climb indoor ( less these outdoor for sure).

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

Yes, I am able to do 6 one arm pull up but I don't do it often. And yes I am able to do a one finger pull up but I don't do it often too because it is too dangerous and I don't want to hurt me.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

I don't know because I am not a pro climber. But I would say it depends on the climber. I hope that the share due to the actual climbing skill will always remain greater than the share due to show.

Climbing (Psychology)

Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

I think all is possible when you want it really, really strong. That said it seems easier to do a one arm pull up than get to the top of the Eiger!

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

It's very important to set goals to make progress, to keep the motivation ... My goals are multiple but in first I want to try "Biographie" next summer , in second I'd like to try "Action directe" in Frankenjura . There are many routes I want to try , hard routes less famous than "Biographie" and "Action directe".

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

I love hard climbing . When I can't do all the movements in a route that does not discourage me . I try to go back stronger. Last week I tried " Le bombé bleu" in Buoux , it's a hard project ( maybe 9a+ or 9b) , it's ( for the moment) too hard for me but I did all the movements exept one and I am very motivate to go back when I could.

Future of rock climbing

Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

I would like the style of climbing in competition to be closer to rock climbing. I would like to see fewer cliff prohibition problems. In France it is a big problem.

Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

Competition seems to take the step on outdoor climbing. I hope outdoor climbing will not be too neglected . I don't know what can be my role in the future but what I know is that it's possible to develop these two sides of the climbing together ( Competition and rock climbing) . And not one side to the detriment of the other .