|Homeland:||Salon de Provence (France)|
|Place of residence:||Salon de Provence (France)|
|With EDELRID since:||2018|
|Sponsors:||EDELRID , TENAYA|
I started climbing when I was 10 years old. My father climb since many years ago. I put a lot of time before start to climb but when I started I no longer stop. I love being outside.
I don't actually have a hero but I am very impressed by climbers like Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Dave Graham , Adam Ondra ... They looks so strong and so fun. I am not influenced by the look of others in general but sometimes I have to admit to attach a little importance.
In first stop the football and begin to climb. My first 8a one year after , my first 9a 3 years after and this summer my redpointed of "Le Cadre" at Céuse. All of these moments was a kind of revelation for me that I found my way ,my passion: Climbing.
I remember the first time I went in Le Cadre at Céuse, I was able to do all the movements exept one of them. This was the end of the holydays. I dreamed this route all the winter and I was fortunate to redpoint this "King line" one year later.
My story with "Le cadre" for sure because in terms of pure difficulty this may not be the most difficult but it was the first time I doubted especially during two months (August and September) during which I could not go at Céuse. This route is so nice and Céuse is so special for me.
I am able to "sleep" on the ground just for climb the day after in my project, like the last summer in Céuse.
I have not especially a training plan. No planning for the year. From September to March I make bouldering in climbing room twice a week and I make sport climbing outside the two days of the week-end . From April to August I make sport climbing in climbing room twice a week and sport climbing outside the week-end . To resume I climb 4 days in a week.
For now we cannot say that I climb too much !!! then no advice... Each person are different and each training should be different.
For me indoor climbing allowed me to progress ready in my projects on rock . And then I like to climb indoor ( less these outdoor for sure).
Yes, I am able to do 6 one arm pull up but I don't do it often. And yes I am able to do a one finger pull up but I don't do it often too because it is too dangerous and I don't want to hurt me.
I don't know because I am not a pro climber. But I would say it depends on the climber. I hope that the share due to the actual climbing skill will always remain greater than the share due to show.
I think all is possible when you want it really, really strong. That said it seems easier to do a one arm pull up than get to the top of the Eiger!
It's very important to set goals to make progress, to keep the motivation ... My goals are multiple but in first I want to try "Biographie" next summer , in second I'd like to try "Action directe" in Frankenjura . There are many routes I want to try , hard routes less famous than "Biographie" and "Action directe".
I love hard climbing . When I can't do all the movements in a route that does not discourage me . I try to go back stronger. Last week I tried " Le bombé bleu" in Buoux , it's a hard project ( maybe 9a+ or 9b) , it's ( for the moment) too hard for me but I did all the movements exept one and I am very motivate to go back when I could.
I would like the style of climbing in competition to be closer to rock climbing. I would like to see fewer cliff prohibition problems. In France it is a big problem.
Competition seems to take the step on outdoor climbing. I hope outdoor climbing will not be too neglected . I don't know what can be my role in the future but what I know is that it's possible to develop these two sides of the climbing together ( Competition and rock climbing) . And not one side to the detriment of the other .