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Oriane Bertone

ORIANE BERTONE -GLOBAL TEAM-

Sports Climbing / Bouldering

Birthday: 10.03.2005
Homeland: Nice, France
Place of residence: Les Avirons (Reunion Island / France)
Size: 165
Arm length: 176
Ape-Index: 1,066
With EDELRID since: 2017
Sponsors: EDELRID, E9, Scarpa, Flathold, 0-3000
CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

National competitions

  • 2017 & 2018 French Champion in lead, boulder and speed (U12)
  • 2019 French Champion in bouldering (Youth B)
  • 2019 French Champion in lead (Youth B)

International competitions (first year of Youth B category)

  • 1st of bouldering European cups in Soure (POR) and Graz (AUT)
  • 1st of bouldering European cups in Ostermundigen (SUI) and Saint Pierre en Faucigny (FRA) (winner of the overall ranking).
  • 2019 : European bouldering Champion in Brixen (ITA)
  • 2019: European Champion of lead in Voronezh (RUS)
  • 2019 : World bouldering champion in Arco (ITA)
  • 2019 : World lead champion in Arco (ITA)

Boulder ticklist

  • "Les beaux quartiers" (8A/+), "Atomic Playboy" (8A+), "Frisson" (8A+), "La Cicatrice de l'Ohm" (8A+), "Trafic" (8B), in Fontainebleau.
  • "Fragile Steps" (8B), "The Arch" (8B), "The master Key" (8B), "Bio-affinity", (8B), "Golden Shadow" (8B/+), in Rocklands.
  • "Psychopad rallongé" (8B), "Le Spartiate direct" sit (8B) ; in Reunion Island.
  • "Fata I Helvete" (8B)
  • "Satan I Helvete bas" (8C)

Lead ticklist

  • "Le secret du mamba noir2 -direct- (FA), (8b+), "Epilepsie" (8c), "Pari" (8c), "Chykungunya" (8c/+) in Reunion Island.
  • "Le mur des cyclopes" (8b+) and "La ballade d'Abdallah" (8a+/b) Flash in Saint Léger.
  • "Death camp into stoompomp blues" (8a+) Flash In Wow Prow (Free State).
  • "Le fluide Glacial" (8b+); "Stay Kratom, Stay safe' (8c) and "Panonoramix et les cyclopes" (8c+) in Saint Léger
Oriane Bertone
INTERVIEW
Climbing
What most people don't know about me.
 

I love raising butterflies in a terrarium. I grow the plants that monarch butterflies feed on until they hatch. I love releasing them when they have spread their wings.


I also have a passion for drawing. I try to keep a drawing book where I draw my memories, my dreams and what I see every day.

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?
 

I discovered climbing accidentally at the age of 8 during an internship in a holiday center. I was in a wrestling club at the time and I loved fight very much. After a day of different outdoor activities (swimming, trekking, bouldering...) the sports animator called my father and ask him how long I had climbed in a club. When he learned from my father that this was the first time I climbed in my life, he advised him to join a club. Since that day, I have not stopped climbing everywhere and all the time.
What I love about climbing is the happiness of conquering the top of the rock. I always have the impression that the climb does not end there and that I can continue to climb and fly over the boulder. I also love above all the moment when I feel that what seemed impossible to do for me, finally becomes possible and that I can succeed. It's a unique sensation when we find hope when I was close to losing it.

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?
 

My childhood hero was Spiderman. I disguised myself as a spiderman when my sister disguised herself as a princess. I was often beside the usual models of little girls and I learned not to look like models. I do not have a hero or a model today and I do not consider myself a model to follow. In return I realize that some expect me to constantly perform and succeed all the time what I undertake. Sometimes it puts me under pressure, but for now it's still positive and it sublimates me.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?
 

In climbing the most important moment is probably the day when I climbed my first boulder in the 7th degree (I remember this boulder : "Pole dance pour vieux", 7B). I was 8 years old and I had been climbing for a few months. I saw in the eyes of my coach and my father that I had done something unusual and that there was a lot of hope in me. I later realized what it meant to them and that a door opened for me to do something different from the daily activities and games that all children usually do. This event of course also deeply influenced my everyday life.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?
 

I am still too young to have experienced major failures or injuries. I sometimes missed a few projects and it affected me, but not very importantly. For now I have not had very difficult experiences to cope.

What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?
 

It's definitely the ascent of "Golden Shadow" in Rocklands. The boulder seemed impossible to do and morpho for me. My dad told me that Ashima did it, but I was only 12 years old and I was smaller. I was short on all movements and the lower section of the boulder seemed unfeasible. My father had almost lost hope and for the first time after 7 or 8 work sessions I decided not to give up and work each section and move. 3 sessions after, when I managed to climb the lower (and hardest) part of the boulder, I felt a huge joy. I had kept hope and had succeeded in my project while the others around me no longer believed it would be possible.

Training
Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?
 

I train a lot. Almost every day. But I do not have a very strict program. I do not do any bodybuilding or campus board exercises. I climb a lot in natural sites and indoor, in lead and in bouldering. I try to vary trainings and supports to keep my motivation and pleasure. My club coach (Vincent Etchar) and regional team coach (Philippe Gaboriaud) follow me very well. My dad goes with me in natural sites and finds good projects for me.

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?
 

It's important for me to vary the training and trust the collective to keep a good motivation and the pleasure of climbing.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?
 

I think these are complementary but very different practices, with specific skills that are not always transferable. I prefer to climb a natural site. I think that's where I'm most comfortable and stronger. Competition and gym climbing do not give time to work on projects. I have to climb under time pressure, even when doing onsight or flash. I find it stimulating of course, but less interesting and less rich.

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?
 

I can not do that. I do not do any exercises besides bouldering and climbing routes.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?
 

I do not really know. This is a question that does not interest me very much.

Psychology of Climbing
Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?
 

Work is all. I have nothing special compared to other climbers. May be I work with more pleasure than many others?

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?
 

My goals are mostly related to my own progress. It is for this reason that I like to give me projects in natural site. As soon as I can solve a problem, I'm looking for a more difficult one. Secondarily, I also wish to win competitions. I would like to win some titles beyond that of champion of France. But it's not very precise and I'm waiting to see the competitions I could participate in to clarify my goals.

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?
 

The harder is the problem, the more it motivates me. The Golden Shadow experience has taught me a lot about what is possible or impossible for me and how to deal with it. That's what I like this activity why I practice it so intensely.

Future of climbing
Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?
 

Not really.

Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?
 

Climbing, in my opinion, becomes an increasingly acrobatic and spectacular activity. I do not know if it's a good thing or a bad thing. It is sure that the gap between competition and natural climbing is growing. I sometimes feel like playing different sports! But I like both forms of practice and I think that I will follow this movement by trying to do my best in both, competition and the natural climbing.

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