|Place of residence:||Les Avirons (Reunion Island / France)|
|With EDELRID since:||2017|
|Sponsors:||EDELRID, E9, EB-climbing, Flathold, 0-3000|
International competitions (first year of Youth B category)
I love raising butterflies in a terrarium. I grow the plants that monarch butterflies feed on until they hatch. I love releasing them when they have spread their wings.
I also have a passion for drawing. I try to keep a drawing book where I draw my memories, my dreams and what I see every day.
I discovered climbing accidentally at the age of 8 during an internship in a holiday center. I was in a wrestling club at the time and I loved fight very much. After a day of different outdoor activities (swimming, trekking, bouldering...) the sports animator called my father and ask him how long I had climbed in a club. When he learned from my father that this was the first time I climbed in my life, he advised him to join a club. Since that day, I have not stopped climbing everywhere and all the time.
What I love about climbing is the happiness of conquering the top of the rock. I always have the impression that the climb does not end there and that I can continue to climb and fly over the boulder. I also love above all the moment when I feel that what seemed impossible to do for me, finally becomes possible and that I can succeed. It's a unique sensation when we find hope when I was close to losing it.
My childhood hero was Spiderman. I disguised myself as a spiderman when my sister disguised herself as a princess. I was often beside the usual models of little girls and I learned not to look like models. I do not have a hero or a model today and I do not consider myself a model to follow. In return I realize that some expect me to constantly perform and succeed all the time what I undertake. Sometimes it puts me under pressure, but for now it's still positive and it sublimates me.
In climbing the most important moment is probably the day when I climbed my first boulder in the 7th degree (I remember this boulder : "Pole dance pour vieux", 7B). I was 8 years old and I had been climbing for a few months. I saw in the eyes of my coach and my father that I had done something unusual and that there was a lot of hope in me. I later realized what it meant to them and that a door opened for me to do something different from the daily activities and games that all children usually do. This event of course also deeply influenced my everyday life.
I am still too young to have experienced major failures or injuries. I sometimes missed a few projects and it affected me, but not very importantly. For now I have not had very difficult experiences to cope.
It's definitely the ascent of "Golden Shadow" in Rocklands. The boulder seemed impossible to do and morpho for me. My dad told me that Ashima did it, but I was only 12 years old and I was smaller. I was short on all movements and the lower section of the boulder seemed unfeasible. My father had almost lost hope and for the first time after 7 or 8 work sessions I decided not to give up and work each section and move. 3 sessions after, when I managed to climb the lower (and hardest) part of the boulder, I felt a huge joy. I had kept hope and had succeeded in my project while the others around me no longer believed it would be possible.
I train a lot. Almost every day. But I do not have a very strict program. I do not do any bodybuilding or campus board exercises. I climb a lot in natural sites and indoor, in lead and in bouldering. I try to vary trainings and supports to keep my motivation and pleasure. My club coach (Vincent Etchar) and regional team coach (Philippe Gaboriaud) follow me very well. My dad goes with me in natural sites and finds good projects for me.
It's important for me to vary the training and trust the collective to keep a good motivation and the pleasure of climbing.
I think these are complementary but very different practices, with specific skills that are not always transferable. I prefer to climb a natural site. I think that's where I'm most comfortable and stronger. Competition and gym climbing do not give time to work on projects. I have to climb under time pressure, even when doing onsight or flash. I find it stimulating of course, but less interesting and less rich.
I can not do that. I do not do any exercises besides bouldering and climbing routes.
I do not really know. This is a question that does not interest me very much.
Work is all. I have nothing special compared to other climbers. May be I work with more pleasure than many others?
My goals are mostly related to my own progress. It is for this reason that I like to give me projects in natural site. As soon as I can solve a problem, I'm looking for a more difficult one. Secondarily, I also wish to win competitions. I would like to win some titles beyond that of champion of France. But it's not very precise and I'm waiting to see the competitions I could participate in to clarify my goals.
The harder is the problem, the more it motivates me. The Golden Shadow experience has taught me a lot about what is possible or impossible for me and how to deal with it. That's what I like this activity why I practice it so intensely.
Climbing, in my opinion, becomes an increasingly acrobatic and spectacular activity. I do not know if it's a good thing or a bad thing. It is sure that the gap between competition and natural climbing is growing. I sometimes feel like playing different sports! But I like both forms of practice and I think that I will follow this movement by trying to do my best in both, competition and the natural climbing.