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Climbing is passion - that is true in one way or another for every one of us, no matter if you are a lowlander or an athlete!
For the athletes of the German national squad, 2020 will be a long-awaited highlight - for the first time, climbing will be part of an Olympic competition.
Sport climbing becomes Olympic!
Climbing competitions have been around for a long time... first on rock and finally also at artificial climbing facilities. These have developed enormously in recent years and have also established the sport of climbing in urban areas. In the past, many traditional climbers and alpinists came to the climbing gyms to train during the off-season. With the spread and professionalization, access to climbing has expanded and brought new sporting challenges with it.
Lead climbing is probably the most common competition discipline. Here the participants climb a defined route one after the other and have to clip the rope themselves into the quickdraws on their way to the top. Each attempt is limited in time and ends with reaching the top or a fall. The goal of the athletes is to climb the route faster than the competitors or to get higher than the other starters. Lead competitions were originally held on rock (first World Cup 1989 in Arco), but are now held on 15-20 metre high artificial walls.
For many bouldering used to be a form of training for sports and alpine climbing, but has established itself as a discipline in its own right and is now extremely popular with professionals and amateurs. In bouldering you do not use a rope, but only climb at jump height. When bouldering on artificial walls and in halls, the floor is equipped with soft floor mats that absorb falls and jumps from the top and protect the boulderers from injuries. The routes are called problems... and these have to be solved by strength, athletics and technique. In some cases complex movements with jumps are required, at the same time other problems require enormous finger strength pulls. The goal is to reach the top grip from the defined start. The athletes have a given time period in which they can try the boulder as often as they like. In the competition the participants can secure their first points by reaching the "zone". The number of attempts is also taken into account in the evaluation - a flash, i.e. reaching the top on the first attempt, is the non-plus-ultra.
Speed climbing has a long tradition especially in Russia, Asia, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. The aim is to sprint up a globally standardized route in as short a time as possible. The length of the route (15 metres), wall inclination (five degrees overhanging) as well as the grips and arrangement of the grips are the same worldwide. It also has a difficulty level of UIIA 7+. Speed climbing is a combination of fast movements and carefully coordinated movements that athletes memorize in countless training sessions down to the smallest detail. In addition to fast power, good grip and step precision also play a decisive role in this discipline.
Following the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, a new competition format was created to show the broadest possible spectrum of climbing. The combination format is called Olympic Combined and combines the disciplines Lead, Bouldering and Speed. The athletes competing at the Olympic Games in Tokyo have to compete in all three disciplines and prepare themselves accordingly. For the overall ranking, the placings of the individual disciplines will be multiplied by each other.
DAV NATIONAL TEAM TRUSTS IN CLOTHING FROM EDELRID
The partnership with the national team of the German Alpine Club (DAV) has existed for more than five years and there is no end in sight! EDELRID equips the German national team with a training and competition collection for the Olympic Games 2020 in Tokyo and beyond.
Martin Veit, Sports Director of the DAV: "With EDELRID, we are pleased to have a competent partner at our side who will provide our athletes with the best possible equipment".
The cooperation between DAV and EDELRID includes not only the top athletes but also the equipment of the junior team as well as all coaches, physios and doctors - a total of 100 people.
The collection consists of more than 30 pieces specially designed for the athletes. These include a functional competition and training collection, stylish casual wear, a travel trolley and a climbing backpack.
"When it comes to cuts and the choice of fabrics, we have focused on functionality and maximum freedom of movement. In addition, we tried to implement the athletes' feedback in the best possible way," says Eva Bermadinger, Product Manager at EDELRID.