Ohm

Our Innovation To Increase the Rope Friction When There Is a Significant Difference In Weight Between Belayer And Lead Climber

Sicherungsgerät OHM Edelrid
Ohm

Our Innovation To Increase the Rope Friction When There Is a Significant Difference In Weight Between Belayer And Lead Climber

The solution for climbers with a weight (difference) problem

The EDELRID Ohm

Ohm Edelrid Logo
Ohm EDELRID Sicherungsgerät Tabletop

The EDELRID Ohm is an innovative, new solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. That is to say the risk for a heavier lead climber if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls and the risk for a lighter belayer if their partner's falls pull them off the ground, hurling them against the wall. The OHM is an assisted-braking resistor that you install at the first bolt in the safety chain. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner without being suddenly pulled off the ground and thrown against the wall. The OHM still enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. The OHM was developed for use at both climbing walls and outdoor sport climbing venues.

Ohm-Icon: schnelles & einfaches Handling
Fast & simple handling
Ohm-Icon: keine Seilreibung
No additional friction
Ohm-Icon: Schütze deine Beziehung
Saves your "belationship"
Ohm-Icon: Gewichtsunterschied 10 - 40 kg
Weight difference 10-40 kg

Climbing partners with a significant difference in weight

If there is a significant difference in weight between lead climber and belayer this frequently causes problems. This applies in particular to climbing couples, where the woman is often significantly lighter than her partner.
In the event of a fall, a lighter belayer can be suddenly pulled off the ground and hurled against the wall. In addition, when a belayer is pulled high off the ground, this significantly increases the distance that the climber falls. If the climber is still near the ground, belayer and climber might collide. In the worst-case scenario, the climber might hit the ground.

Using a weight bag to reduce the difference in weight is not possible all the time (nobody wants to carry a weight bag to the crag). In addition, weight bags restrict a belayer's freedom of movement. And even when using a weight bag, the belayer still has to supply the full braking force (with the associated risk of friction burns as the rope runs through belay device).

OUR INNOVATION TO COMPENSATE FOR SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE IN WEIGHT BETWEEN CLIMBING PARTNERS

The design of the Ohm was underpinned with scientific research at the Institute of Mechanical Handling and Logistics (IFT), Stuttgart, Germany. It is an assisted braking resistor which is attached to the first bolt in the safety chain. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the braking unit of the device and the fall is progressively arrested. This means the OHM does not brake the rope abruptly, but incrementally, so that the fall can be dynamically caught by the belayer. The OHM increases the friction in the safety chain, regardless of which belay device is used. This means the belayer has to apply considerably less manual force to the brake-side of the rope and is not suddenly pulled upwards or against the wall.

Due to its design, the OHM in no way restricts the handling of the rope for the lead climber. It does not increase the friction for the lead climber, nor does it negatively affect paying out the rope. The braking performance only comes into effect if a fall occurs. Due to the increased friction, lowering a heavier climber is also much easier to contol. Therefore accidents when lowering can be avoided.

In this way the OHM assists both the belayer and the lead climber.
The belayer will no longer be slammed against the wall. The lead climber can go right up to their climbing limit, with the reassuring knowledge that the belayer can secure them or that the landing will be soft.

The German Alpine Club (DAV) recommends that a lead climber should weigh a maximum of 10 kg more than the belayer (for example, belayer 60 kg/climber maximum weight 70 kg). If the lead climber is more than 10 kg heavier than the belayer, then weight or friction-enhancing measures are recommended.

edelrid-sicherungsgeraet-ohm-anwendung-video
Far less holding force has to be applied in the event of a fall
Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control
OHM is attached to the first anchor point in the safety chain
In the event of a fall at the first anchor point, the OHM significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground fall
Rope handling when belaying a lead climber is not affected (no additional friction when paying out rope)
Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10-40 kg
Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg
For single ropes with diameters of 8.4-11 mm